![]() Enlarger lenses are also more balanced in the corners than others!Īlso when scanning your negative please note. The lens is very important as if you get an ordinary lens this will cause much less dof ! That means slight misfocus and that's it. I did that as the glass caused some color casts. If the glass causes you problems redesign it so that it has a glass only on the bottom. Then get the holder from the enlarger to use it on your negatives. My case is different ,because i used the upper part of the enlarger and redesigned it in to a light box with a hole measuring 6圆 centimetres.This way i installed a very powerfull led bulb inside ,though i have to change it to a white one since the one i had is warmer XD. īelow i got a lens IT MUST BE SHARP and an ENLARGER LENS!! ) Komuranon e 105mm lens !Its very very sharp lens and covers most of my needs ! Then use light table with white leds in it. Now on the rail i can move my camera up and down. ![]() I removed the enlarger part and atached a bellows to the rail. ![]() Īn enlarger that is of no use ! I got an old b&W image darkroom enlarger for no money. If you get to the grain then well yeah you will have a sharper image ,but also with grain and that will in some cases hurt the aesthetics of the image !!You want a nice image not a sharp ugly one !If you want sharpness in 35mm film ,then do a good job at the camera and use a sharp lens ! I have scanned some 35mm negatives that are sharp and have resolution without much sharpening needed. despite the fact that they can be made almost noiseless, this is film ! Film has noise ! For this reason it is not very wise to try to remove ,or deal with it too much ! In fact it is not even wise to try to extract every detail also if the film is not as sharp ,because then the noise will be there staring at you. Its easy to scan them and easy to adjust making it simple to work !Īlso. The good news is that you can do finely ! This ,if done on an home enlarger will be painstaking to adjust everything so fine and well and there will allways be something that is not that well while here with very fine curve adjustments one can get very good tones and very balanced colors !! ![]() Every color is alone ! Every color has different contrast and levels and for this reason even if the mask is out you will still need to make things manually. people must understand that color negatives are hard to scan in general because one must have an eye and do manual adjustments ,because even if you can remove the orange mask they seem to have very speciffic curves and color balance. I had a few slides that i did and everything else was doh. It cant see detail at all and i have to anlarge and get multiple shots at them ,then stich to do the job and only one lens gets as close to be satisfiable. That does depend on the type of slides though.I had a Agfa old-ish slide scanned and it was ok and i also scanned Fuji's velvias and my camera is BLIND to them. The only issue is that dslr-s and cheap scanners are terrible at scanning slides. So i will get bigger prints and the ability to scan better. The reason being that i did not buy a scanner was because i decided that buying a dslr would cost me as much ,but be an upgrade. įirst off i can now with success scan color negative and b&w film with my dslr. Now i decided to start it again to show after lots of experiments where it got to. Well basically i had another thread abou this ,but as i was writing it a "'few "' problems popped out.
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